Slovenia can be experienced in several ways. You could tailor your trip around wineries, the thermal spa culture, hiking in Triglav National Park, coastal living, or as a road trip destination where you can experience a little bit of everything. Slovenia is also the perfect destination for any season. Go rafting or soak in the sun on a pebbled beach in the warmer months. Or hit the slopes in one of the quintessential alpine towns in the winter. Another great aspect of Slovenia is that it’s a combination of Italian, German and Slavic cultures and cuisines. And to top it all off, it’s both affordable and as of now still not an overly visited country. Do not sleep on this destination.
TRAVEL DAY and LOGISTICS
I chose to experience my first trip to Slovenia as a road trip. First, fly into Zagreb, Croatia which borders Slovenia. If you have more than a week, I encourage you to include Croatia in your trip. Definitely rent a car for this trip even if you aren’t doing a full road trip. Driving is easy and gives you the most flexibility for your stay. On your way to the Slovenian border, stop at any gas station to purchase your driving vignette that needs to be kept in your car. There are options to purchase an E-vignette online as well. Then, drive 1 ½ hours to Slovenia’s capital of Ljubljana. The driving rules are almost identical to those in the United States. Make sure to get your international driver’s license before you leave the States. You can get one at any AAA location in the U.S.
Day 1
Morning
Start your morning off in the capital city of Ljubljana. It’s a very walk-able and bike-able city. If you have a full day, rent bikes and enjoy some of the city’s beautiful green spaces. If you don’t have much time, stick to the city center. It’s a historic area so no cars are allowed, but there are several easily accessible parking lots if you are driving in. Walk along the river and take in the simultaneously lively and relaxed atmosphere. There are bands playing on the cobblestone streets, bridges flanked by dragon statues, markets full of street vendors, plenty of stores to pop into, and bakeries and coffee shops just waiting for you to come in and stay a while. On a sunny morning you will see locals just out and about enjoying the simplicity of the city. You may even catch a movie being filmed as well. By no means do you need all day, but take a couple of hours to relax and start your vacay. Or, if you do spend the full day here, I suggest renting bikes, taking this food tour, or visiting the Postojana Caves.
Afternoon
As the day warms up, hop in your rental car and head towards Ptju and Maribor. These cities are about an hour and a half from Ljubljana, so they would also make a nice day trip if you want to spend more time in the capital city. In hindsight, I would have made this a day trip, but I wanted to experience and enjoy the wine region of Maribor and therefore wanted to limit my driving once I arrived. Ptju is the oldest city in Slovenia and sits alongside the peaceful Drava River. This is another area where a bike ride would be beautiful. It’s a very small town, but I suggest it as a stop to have lunch on your way to Maribor. There’s something special about Ptju as it’s a tiny spot that feels off the beaten path. It’s a nice reminder that Europe is home to so much more than the big ticket tourist cities. Check out the Ptju Castle and the Ptuj Ormoz Regional Museum, then relax for some lunch and enjoy a traditional Slovenian dish like štruklji which is like an Austrian strudel. Next, drive over the picturesque wine-growing area of Jeruzalem where you can visit the rolling hills and vineyards and taste some of the local wines. This rural area is dotted with several wineries that boast breathtaking views. There is also a Tourist Information Center/Wine Shop which is a great starting point.
Evening
Towards the end of the afternoon, drive over to the town of Maribor. If you are staying in the city center, you will have to park along outside streets (don’t worry there are signs everywhere) and then walk to your lodging. Check into your accommodation and make a stop at The Old Vine House. Make sure to check the opening days/times. Here you can visit the oldest growing wine vine in the world. Now that you have a little wine history, head over to Vinag Wine Cellar. I recommend booking your tour and tasting ahead of time, but they were also taking walk-ins when I was there. This tour is fantastic! You will descend 13 steps and venture into the cool, dimly lit cellars where rows and rows of oak barrels and wine racks line the corridors. As you wander the labyrinth of dark tunnels your guide will provide fascinating historical insights into the origins of the Vinag Wine Cellar and the historical culture of Slovenian wine making traditions. Did you know, they used to make children crawl into the large wine vats to clean them because they were the only ones who could fit? Wine makers also used a candle to determine the level of carbon dioxide in the air, and if the candle went out, it meant the oxygen was leaving the room and the child needed to get out immediately! Thank God for technology and child labor laws! At the end of the tour, enjoy the tasting!. Not only do you get to sample several delicious wines, but you get to spend time getting to know the other tour members. My favorite part was meeting an Opera singer from Saltzburg. She was small enough to fit into one of the wine vats. Apparently the hollowness of the vat creates a prime acoustical situation and she shared her singing with us!
Day 2
Morning
Get up early and enjoy the quiet morning with a beautiful drive to the fairy-tale-like area of Lake Bled. The drive is less than two hours so you will arrive early enough to enjoy a late breakfast at Lake Bled. There are plenty of parking options and once you’ve parked, everything is very walk-able. Start your day at a lakeside cafe, enjoying the local pastries and coffee while taking in the view. Tip- Remember that in Europe coffee to-go, or take-away as they call it, is not a common custom. So find a place to sit and relax. Then enjoy a leisurely stroll around the shores of Lake Bled. The calm waters, surrounded by the lush greenery and the Julian Alps in the distance is breathtaking. If you have trouble slowing down on vacation, this is the perfect place to practice. Next, head over to the docks and rent a traditional wooden pletna boat where skilled local oarsmen row you over to the iconic Bled Island. Bring cash (Euros) to pay for the boat. No matter the season, the views approaching the island and Bled Castle in the distance are stunning. Spend some time on Bled Island, visit the Church of the Assumption, and ring the “wishing bell” for good luck. You probably only need around an hour on Bled Island, but again, take time to enjoy the tranquility.
Afternoon
It’s been a pretty relaxing day so far, so this afternoon, embark on a short hike up to Bled Castle. To get to the starting point, begin at the wooden boat house, walk along the lake towards the castle and look for signs that say “Grad” which means castle. The uphill walk is only about 15 minutes and worth the stunning vistas of the lake and surrounding landscape. You also get a great overhead view of Bled Island. At the top, explore Bled Castle and visit the museum inside. After your walk back down the hill, relax by the lake at another cafe and enjoy the traditional Blejska kremna rezina or Bled cream cake.
Evening
Check into your hotel and freshen up. The evening is a great time to choose from several lakeside activities. You can rent bikes and meander along the well-marked cycling paths that take you through charming villages and offer more scenic views of the lake. You could also rent a rowboat or paddle board and enjoy the sunset on the water. Or you could wander the shops and explore the handmade items Slovenia has to offer. Enjoy another traditional Slovenian dinner at any of the several restaurants with covered outdoor terraces. Then rest up for an adventurous day ahead of you.
Day 3
Morning
Rise and shine, it’s time to jump, repel, slide, and zip line into the chilly waters of the canyons in the mountains surrounding Lake Bled. A Canyoneering Tour is the perfect adventure to help you wake up and feel alive! I booked this tour through Viator and it was fantastic! Not exactly relaxing but So. Much. Fun! Meet your guide at the designated pick up spot (they will also pick you up from your hotel) and take the thirty minute drive up into the mountains. Wear a bathing suit under your clothes. You will be given wet suits, shoes, a helmet, and a harness. Once you are outfitted, you will take a fifteen minute uphill hike where you will begin your descent down the canyon. It’s a fantastic adrenaline rush. We jumped off a twenty foot cliff into freezing water to start, but the wet suit dried quickly and I was more than warm when we got to our next obstacle which was sliding down a rock incline. Between each obstacle you walk through beautiful forests. I went in October and the leaves were turning which was stunning. The views were great but delightfully interrupted by our guide letting us know it was time to zip line into a waterfall, slide down another rock formation, or jump into another canyon pool. Don’t let fear hold you back on this. I hate heights and cold water and yet this was one of my favorite parts of the trip!
Afternoon
After this adventure, dry off and head over to Vintgar Gorge. Pay the small fee (cash-Eros) and walk along the wooden board trail past some of the most stunningly blue waters I’ve ever seen. There is a parking lot and cafe at the start of the hike, so it’s very clear where to begin your hike. The fall foliage combined with the color of the river was pretty insane. If you are not too tired, you can extend your hike (a map is available at the start of the hike). You will leave the gorge area and wind through beautiful forests before emerging into a picturesque valley near a small town with cows and sheep in the meadows along the path. It is by no means a difficult hike, and it’s a nice break from the more crowded area of Vintgar Gorge.
Evening
I know a hot shower would probably be great right now, but trust me and drive the 40 minutes to your hotel in the alpine town of Kranjska Gora first. Enjoy the mountain views as you drive towards this adorable ski town, then check in, freshen up, and maybe take some time to enjoy a sauna at your hotel. After you’ve relaxed in the sauna (a very common amenity at most Slovenian hotels) change and head to dinner. We ate on the outside patio at Gostilna Viktor Pizzeria and enjoyed the mountain views with our meal. After dinner, walk around the town for a bit and then relax after your adventurous day.
Day 4
Morning
Grab breakfast at the hotel and drive up to the top of the highest pass in Slovenia, Vršič Pass. There are several hikes that start at the parking lot here. A great mid level hike is the hike to Slemenova Ṥpica. It’s less than four miles with a lot of variety. I typically use All Trails to find my hikes. There is a ton of hiking to be done in Slovenia’s Triglav National Park. I plan to go back and explore a lot more at a more seasonable time. If the weather is good and you are up for a more challenging hike, make Mangart, the country’s third highest peak on the Slovenian/Italian border, a destination on your must-see list.
Afternoon
We weren’t in a hurry, so we did a little more driving. We weaved along the mountainous roads for about forty minutes to the Russian Chapel on Vršič Pass. It’s a beautiful Russian, wooden, chapel built by POWs during the first World War. The Walk of Peace is also located a short distance away on the Italian/Slovenian border and offers guided tours with historical commentary. A low key hike in the afternoon is the Bovec Loop Trail. The trail starts near the roundabout by the Hotel Mangart (we stayed here and loved it). It’s 4.3 miles with very little elevation gain. The loop takes you through the valley with views of the mountains above, across blue mountain streams, and through wooded meadows. It’s a really pleasant hike with a lot of diversity without being challenging.
Evening
After a day of hiking, head to the small city-center and grab a drink. There are several cafes and you can relax surrounded by historical buildings and the mountains in the background. Walk along Bovec’s short main road and pop in some of the shops. Then grab dinner and maybe take a sauna before drifting off to sleep. Tip-Triglav National Park and the hiking in this part of the country offers so much more to discover than what is on this itinerary. In addition to hiking, there are a ton of other outdoor activities like white water rafting, ziplining, canyoneering, and rock climbing, as well as overnight hikes with stays in mountain huts. I plan to go back to Slovenia during the summertime specifically to visit this part of the country as it definitely deserves more attention.
Day 5
Morning
After a beautiful day in the mountains it’s time to go seaside. It’s a two and a half hour drive from Bovec to Piran, but there is so much to see in between. Before you head into Piran, pop over the border into Italy and visit the coastal town of Trieste. Be aware, the leisurely pace of Slovenian driving changes abruptly as you cross over the Italian border. I’ve only driven in Italy once and quite frankly it was enough for me. I had to kinda just wing it and fake an attitude of confidence since it felt like everyone else knew the unwritten rules of the road except me. Thankfully, I found a parking space and we walked towards the city center. Even though we were mere miles from the Slovenian border, Italy feels different. Walk through the large open town square and up and down the side streets. Sample gelato, coffee, and pastries, as you move through the bustling city morning. Then, walk over to the coast and walk along the road where several vendors are out selling everything from handmade trinkets to vacation packages. A couple of hours is plenty of time to sample a bit of Italy before continuing on to Piran.
Afternoon
Piran is a charming coastal town known for its picturesque old town, stunning Adriatic Sea views, and Venetian architecture. Once you arrive in Piran, you will need to get to your hotel. There is a parking garage on your left as you drive into Piran where you will need to park. Hotels in the city center validate parking since there is no parking allowed in the city center where many hotels are located. Don’t be confused by the small parking lot at the entrance to the city center which is reserved for residents only. After you park in the garage, make your way to the large outside parking lot. There are buses that run every ten minutes from the parking lot to the center of town. You can also walk along the walkway next to the Adriatic into town, but with luggage that may be a little much. Once you check in, take some time to explore Tartini Square. Walk through the tiny alleyways filled with shops, markets, restaurants, and people’s homes. Walk the paved walkway along the town walls next to the Adriatic, and if you can brave the cold waters put your feet in or maybe even take a dip.
There are several nearby towns that are minutes away like Izola and Koper. All of them have the charming red-roofed buildings nestled along the seaside with gorgeous views. Any one of these towns would make a perfect stay. As you are nearing the end of your trip, schedule a few hours at one of the thermal baths. If you are there in the summer, Lepa Vida is a thermal spa on the salt flats of Piran. However, even in October there were several spas for us to choose from with beautiful soaking pools and options for body treatments and massages.
Evening
Now that you are all relaxed, freshen up and head to dinner, but make sure to look up what time the sun sets. The sunset in Piran was one of the most beautiful I’ve ever experienced. There are several restaurants along the water’s edge, and I suggest getting there slightly before sunset, so you can enjoy a glass of Slovenian wine and watch the orange and pink glow of the sun as it dips below the horizon. After dinner, head back to the town center and grab a seat at one of the outdoor cafes. Sit and watch the people pass by, the kids playing in the fountains, and shopkeepers packing up for the day as the stars come out.
Day 6
Morning
Have a relaxed espresso at any of the lovely seaside cafes taking in the views of the small fishing boats in the harbor. If you are there in the summer, head to Fiesa Beach, a nearby bay with crystal-clear waters. Spend the morning swimming, sunbathing, or strolling the coast. If it’s not beach going season, there is still plenty to enjoy. Check out the Sečovlje Salt Pans which are a short drive from Piran. Take a guided tour to learn about the traditional salt production and the unique ecosystem of the salt flats.
Afternoon
There are two great options to consider as your trip winds down:
Option 1: If you are loving the coastal atmosphere, spend the remainder of the day in Piran and check out some of the other seaside towns. Then depending on when your flight from Zagreb leaves, you could spend the night in Piran again and wake up early to drive to the airport. If you are there in the summer, I would spend another full day soaking in the Venetian culture and further enjoying the stunning sea views.
Option 2: Go ahead and drive back to Zagreb, Croatia this afternoon and take a food tour of the Croatian capital that evening. As it was fall and we were limited on our water activities, we chose option 2.
Evening
After driving back to Zagreb, we made our way to the city center for this food tour through Get Your Guide. We sampled traditional Slovenian fare while strolling the streets of this medieval looking city. It may look a little different, but don’t skip on trying the final dish, żivjeli kata, a hot, Croatian very cheesy cheesecake. There are several cool stops in the city, and I definitely want to come back and explore more. If you have the time, check out the Museum of Broken Relationships!
Final Thoughts
I’m so glad my first experience of Slovenia was as a road trip because it revealed the major diversity of this small country. The different regions and all they have to offer allows you to also customize your trip to the areas and activities you are most interested in. If you only have a week, I would stay in the Lake Bled area and make day trips to several spots. Or if hiking is your thing, I would stay closer to Triglav National Park and do an overnight hike where you can stay in a mountain hut. If you stay on the coast, take a day to ride the ferry over to Venice, Italy and spend some time there as well. My road trip introduced me to the variety of this beautiful country, and I can’t wait to go back and get to know it better!
