Banff and the Alberta province of Canada (located on the west side of Canada) are areas I undoubtedly plan to return to. I went with my fiance, Eric, and we both fell in love with this part of the world. The Canadian Rockies are stunning and they are enjoyable by Everyone no matter your activity level. In this post, I will include options for those who enjoy the kind of hikes that make you work for the views, as well as options for those who need or prefer a less physical experience. The mountain views and experiences are available no matter how you decide to explore.
Logistics
Fly into Calgary and rent a car. Unless you arrive super late, I think you should go ahead and make the hour and a half drive into the Banff area so you can start your trip immediately the next day. While the town of Banff is adorable, I would argue the town of Canmore (about a 20 minute drive from Banff) is just as adorable and more budget friendly. I also really liked how the town of Canmore felt engulfed by the mountains. There is a cute walk-able downtown strip with lots of restaurants, shops, and galleries. We stayed at Canmore Inn and Suites. It had a hot tub which was great for soaking our tired legs after hikes. And if you have kids, there is a water slide that the adults of the hotel seemed to enjoy just as much as the kids. Just a heads up, if you aren’t staying in the town of Banff, and you are visiting in July or August, you may need to plan to use the Park shuttle to get into the main part of the town and access some of the sites like the gondola or the hot springs. We went in June and didn’t have any major traffic or parking issues, but during the peak season of July and August (especially on the weekends) many of the parking areas fill up early. There is a parking lot outside of the town and shuttles run consistently to several areas of the town. Banff is within Banff National Park, so you will need to purchase a park pass at the gates on your way in. Once I knew what I wanted to see and do in Banff, this was the site I used to organize the logistical side of things: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff
Day 1–Lake Lousie and Lake Moraine
MORNING
You need to make arrangements to visit Lake Louise and Lake Moraine as soon as you decide you’re going to Banff. You can’t drive your car to these sites, but you can purchase shuttle or bus tickets. The shuttle tickets fill up FAST. They are less expensive ($8 for adults), but even if you miss out on purchasing the shuttle tickets like we did, there are tour buses available. They are pricier (we paid around $40 for ours), but worth it if you miss the shuttle tickets. No matter what type of transportation you purchase, all of the shuttles and buses leave from the Park and Ride area at the Lake Louise Ski Resort. I highly recommend getting the earliest tickets available. For most people (unless you are biking in or hiking in) there is no getting around the fact that this is going to be a more crowded experience. But the earlier you get there the better. Check out this site for more info on the shuttle services: https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/parkbus/louise
Your first stop is Lake Louise. Both of these lakes are absolutely worth the hype. Take some time to wander around the toothpaste colored lake. If mobility is an issue, no worries. The views are stunning as soon as you walk up to the lake and there are plenty of spots to grab a seat and just enjoy. The shoreline hike is also an easy walk around the lake as well. If you are looking for more of a hike, the Lake Agnes Tea House Trail provides a beautiful woodsy walk and offers stunning overhead views of Lake Louise. As you ascend (the hike is all uphill until you get to the tea house) the color of the water below gets even more intense. At the top is the Agnes Tea House where you can purchase hot tea (cash only) and enjoy another small lake set against the mountains. There are bathrooms at the top, and this is also the start of some other hikes such as the Big and Little Beehive hikes. Eric and I took some time to hike around and explore at the top. As you move past the tea house, the crowds thin and you can relax and explore in the quiet.
AFTERNOON
After your hike down, enjoy a picnic lunch next to Lake Louise and then catch your bus or shuttle (check the schedule with your driver when you arrive) to Lake Moraine. Make sure to plan sufficient time at Lake Moraine. Looking back, we would have spent a little less time at the top of the Agnes Tea House trail and more time exploring at Lake Moraine. The color of this lake is mind blowing. There is absolutely NO editing on my pics. After our long hike at Lake Louse, we decided to just walk the .5 miles up a rocky trail and found a spot where we nestled into the rocks and sat back to enjoy the views. There is a 3.2 mile shoreline hike and the option to kayak as well. I think we could have handled more hiking around Lake Moraine if we hadn’t still been recovering from sickness earlier in the week. Eric was in a racing accident two days before and was feeling pretty sore, and I was crazy sick the week before, so we were both a little weak to say the least. If you are in moderate shape, I think you could easily handle the Agnes Tea House Hike at Lake Louise and an additional hike at Lake Moraine.
EVENING
The lakes can be a full day experience depending on how long you explore the areas. At the end of the afternoon, drive back to either Banff or Canmore. We went back to the hotel, sat in the hot tub for a bit, freshened up and then went to dinner at Graze–a small, hipsterish spot with traditional bar food like burgers, tacos, and the popular Canadian dish: poutine. I don’t care for poutine (fries covered gravy and cheese curds) but Eric said it was good. As I was still recovering that day, I stuck to butternut squash soup which was tasty. Eric gave the place a 7 out 10–a great spot for a quick bite when you’re tired but not our favorite spot of the trip.
DAY 2–The Ink Pots and Banff Gondola
MORNING to Mid-AFTERNOON
Remember, July and August are the true high seasons when it is warmest and most crowded. We went in June which was still chilly, and while not as insanely crowded as July and August, it is still important to start your day early if you are someone who appreciates more solace in nature. The Lower and Upper Falls hike at Johnston Canyon is probably one of the most popular hikes in Banff. The first part of the hike is paved and an easy walk to two beautiful waterfalls. At the top of the Upper Falls is the start of a more moderate hike to the Ink Pots. Johnston Canyon is a little over 30 minute drive from Banff. We arrived at 7 am which rewarded us with a very quiet hike. If you can handle getting up early on vacay it is totally worth it. We enjoyed the quiet hike to Lower and then Upper halls, and then we continued our hike to the Ink Pots. The entire route from the start of the falls hike to the Ink Pots is 7.5 miles out and back. It was fantastic. The Ink Pots are basically like underground mineral springs that turn the waters to intense shades of blue and green. They are so unique and beautiful. As if the Ink Pots weren’t cool enough, the area is surrounded by valley and mountain views with a river running next to you. We spent over an hour continuing our hike past the Ink Pots, eating lunch by the river, and taking a catnap surrounded by nature. I’m one of those people who gets overwhelmed by nature in the best way. I definitely teared up a little during this experience. It’s just tranquil and humbling to remember how small we are in the big scheme of things.
Mid-AFTERNOON to EVENING
When we returned to the Johnston Canyon parking lot (which was PACKED on our way out), we walked over to a set of shops where we got some coffees and relaxed in the sun before heading back to the town of Banff. I booked a gondola ride through the Banff Jasper Experience, but there are several places to book like Viator. After the hike and before our gondola ride, we took a minute to go back to our place in Canmore, freshen up, and grab an afternoon drink at a place with a stunning outdoor patio called The Wood. It was so amazing we went back for dinner that night and then again for drinks several more times that trip. Their cocktails are seasonal and they are de-lish! After a nice hour of sitting on the patio sipping drinks surrounded by the mountains, we headed back to the town of Banff for our gondola ride.
The ride takes you to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. Again, because it wasn’t the complete peak season, we were able to drive our car to the parking lot (it is right below the parking lot for the Banff hot springs as well) without much hassle. We had to arrive within 20 minutes of our scheduled time. We we were not allowed to get there earlier because the lot would be full. Se we walked around the gift shop for a bit and then hopped on our gondola and took the ride up to the top of Sulphur Mountain (you can also hike to the top). The views were spectacular! At the top there is an interactive center. You can enjoy a small museum about the ecosystems and watch a short video about Banff. It’s actually a pretty good video with awesome drone shots of the park. There is a lovely restaurant at the top with killer views and a short board walk with a few stairs out to another lookout. You could easily spend a leisurely hour at the top, but if you’re up for it, there is a hiking trail that starts near the entrance to take the gondola back down. If you are looking at the line to return, the start of the hike is on your right. It meanders through the forested top of the mountain and then takes you to the side of the summit where the views are overwhelming and there is a good bit of rock scrambling. Eric is less afraid of heights than me, and was feeling physically better, so he climbed the rock boulders to the very top. I found a place to hang out on a cliff-side (a safe place) and just relaxed while taking it all in.
I must admit: I struggled a bit on this trip because of being sick the week before. I was feeling pretty weak and tired and Eric definitely pushed me to keep going. Even though I didn’t feel my best, I was able to keep up with him for the most part. For someone who works out daily and pushes myself physically, it was a bit humbling to not be the one who led the charge and had the never ending energy. However, it did open my eyes to all the options that are available if hiking is not your thing. End your evening with dinner in Banff or Canmore. We went back to the Wood and the food was just as good as the drinks. Another option is to have dinner at the top of the gondola ride then head back to your hotel to relax.
DAY 3–Visit or Hike a Glacier
MORNING TO AFTERNOON
Ok, this was a Strenuous day, but there are ways to enjoy a major glacier without hiking it– so stay with me. Get up super early and make the two hour drive to the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Center where you can view and visit the Athabasca Glacier. I wish I hadn’t been exhausted and slept during the drive, because Eric said the early morning drive down the Icefields Parkway was epic. The Banff Jasper Collection offers several ways to enjoy the glacier like the bus tours that drive up the side of the glacier (buses are equipped with special devices to make their way up the ice). During the bus ride, there is a spot where you can get out and try to walk around the ice. We could see people laughing and slipping while trying to walk at their stop. The Skywalk is a glass bridge that provides a viewpoint as well. There are also options to actually hike on the glacier. Ice Walks offers guided half day and full day tours. You don’t need to be an athlete by any means, but you do need to be able to walk for several hours while wearing winter gear and pushing yourself through some snow. The half day tour is three hours and three miles while the full day tour is six hours and 5 miles. It doesn’t seem like 5 miles would take you six hours, but it’s more of a slow trudge across the icy plane. When you look at the glacier it is also hard to comprehend that it is actually miles long. And strangely, the hike does not feel like 6 hours.
We met our guides in the parking lot of the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Center. I was wearing yoga pants, a thermal shirt and my Patagonia lightweight jacket. I also had a hat, gloves, scarf, and my normal (worn out) athletic shoes. They provided waterproof pants, a waterproof jacket, crampons (spikes that hook around your shoes), and hats and gloves if you need them. Layers are important. I wasn’t freezing the entire time, but the temperature changed throughout the hike. I stayed in all my layers, because I’d rather be warm than cold. Yes it’s summertime, but with the elevation it is always chilly, cold, or absolutely freezing. Also, do NOT skimp on the sunscreen. Even with sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat, my face got toasty. Sunglasses are a must. The sun usually doesn’t bother my eyes, but the glare of the glacier is hard to bear without sunglasses. Walking on a block of white ice with the sun’s reflection for 3 to 6 hours will leave you burnt crispy if you are not prepared. The walk was tough but not impossible for sure. As long as you follow the guide you are safe, and you get to see some amazing things along the way like crevices that are miles deep, glacial waters winding their way through the ice, and glaciologists setting up equipment like they are studying the surface of the moon. It is truly an other worldly experience.
AFTERNOON to EVENING
We were tired but not exhausted after the trek. We had read about the Parker Ridge hike which is located between Banff and the Athabasca Glacier, and decided to give it a go on our way back. The hike is on the right side of the road if you’re driving towards Banff and it is ALL uphill. It’s a tough hike, but oh my Gosh it is worth every step. The switch backs up are surrounded by trees that make you feel like you’re walking through a Christmas tree farm. There are beautiful ferns and wildflowers everywhere you look. And while it was tough (especially after hiking a glacier for 6 hours), when you get to the very top it opens up to a 360 degree view of mammoth mountains that seem to encircle everything around you. You know the opening scene of The Sound of Music? That’s kind of what it felt like. You can continue the hike (and I suggest you do) and will eventually be rewarded with a view of another stunning glacier. There aren’t a lot of words I can think of to explain this hike. Epic is really the only one that comes to mind. This hike was hands down my favorite experience of the entire trip and one of the best hike I’ve ever experienced.
We had a bit of a drive back, but stopped at Peyote Lake right around dusk. If the Parker Ridge hike is not your thing, I suggest skipping it and checking out Peyote Lake right after your visit to the Athabasca Glacier. It is an easy paved walk to the look out of the lake. Once again, these pictures are in no way edited. It really does look like this. If it had been earlier in the day we would have done more hiking here as it truly was spectacular. Finally, make the remainder of the drive home, grab a quick bite, soak your tired legs in the hot tub, and crash.
DAY 4–Relax in Canmore and the Town of Banff
MORNING
Now, Eric and I crammed a lot into three days. This is mainly because we were super sick the first day of our trip and wanted to “catch up” when we felt better on the second day. I think you could also rearrange this into a five or six day trip and spend some more time on additional hikes or experiences like rafting or renting bikes for the day. But if you follow an itinerary similar to ours, make sure to spend a full day taking in some relaxing activities, or schedule your physical stuff the first part of the day and relax and enjoy the picturesque mountain towns of Banff and Canmore during the second half of the day.
If you love to shop, there is no shortage of options in Banff and Canmore. Cutesy souvenir stores, shops with unique homemade goods, upscale boutiques with outfits straight from an L.L Bean catalog, and stores where you can find any apparel item for any outdoor activity–there’s a place to find any mountain town commodity you desire. In addition to the shops, there are also several art galleries. I particularly love the photo galleries with shots of animals from around the park.
No great stroll around town day is complete without food and drinks.I kid you not, we went two days in a row to The Wood for afternoon cocktails and then back for dinner. The food was incredible and the outdoor patio could not be beat. There are tons of outdoor dining options, but things are just a tad cheaper in Canmore than Banff. The afternoons were warm in town, but even in the evenings they had heaters for those who wanted to be outside. In Canmore, we had a really delightful brunch at Harvest Cafe. It is along the main strip and you can sit outside in the warm sun while people watching and soaking in the surrounding mountains.
Speaking of soaking, take some time to recharge in the Banff Upper Hot Springs. They are open late (check the schedule but typically from 10 AM to 10 PM), so it’s a great option for an evening activity. You can’t purchase tickets in advance, but you can rent towels so no need to pack those. If you are going during a busy time or a weekend, you may want to make this your first stop as soon as they open in the morning.
There really is something for everyone in this National Park. Eric and I have discussed how even though we love exploring new places, this is one that we can’t wait to return to. I don’t think I can ever tire of majestic mountains, and there are a few hikes like Parker’s Ridge that I want to do more than once in my lifetime. I would love to experience Banff in the winter as well one day. There are also several other national parks nearby if you have more time. We want to one day explore Kootenay and Yoho National Park as well. If you decide to go to this area of the world, drop me a message and tell me what you are most looking forward to. And if you’ve been, tell me about your favorite part of this special park!
I can’t wait to go!