Madeira: An Enchanting Escape

The word that continuously came to mind for me while in Madeira was bewitching. The nature of the island has a whimsy quality. Every winding road reveals a new wonder: from the rugged cliffs that cradle the coastline to the vibrant tapestry of exotic flora that springs up everywhere. I could have easily spent my entire week off in Madeira. If you are considering checking out Madeira while in Portugal, take my word for it and take the two hour (and seriously cheap) flight over to the island even if you have limited time. I spent two full days here, and every moment felt like like fairytale. 

 

Madeira is only about 90 miles around the entire coastline. In terms of activities, it can be divided into the East and West side. Funchal, the capital and largest city, sits on the southeastern side of the island. However, I prefer a quieter setting, and found several towns along the northeastern coast to be a great base for seeing the island. Because Madeira is so small, there is no bad spot in terms of your stay. Funchal offers the city atmosphere, the entire coast boasts several charming seaside towns, and the more central areas to the north give you access to both the mountains and the water. 

 

I stayed in Sao Vicente which is in the central northwestern area. A beautiful drone shot of a church in the lush mountains with the ocean not too far off in the distance was the whole reason I added Madeira to my Portugal trip. I had to see that little building sitting quietly atop the hillside surrounded by green slopes and dotted with red roofs. Sao Vicente is a mountain town tucked in between the cliff sides only a short distance (all be it a steep and winding distance) from the ocean. There are several towns with this type of location along the northwestern coast and any of them would be a great place to stay. I absolutely recommend the Estalogem hotel in Sao Vicente. The staff was incredibly accommodating, the rooms were spacious with great views, there was an onsite restaurant, pool, sauna, and spa, and the outside gardens provided the perfect spot to unwind with a glass of poncha and a view of the hillside church. Be careful with that poncha though. It’s the traditional island drink made of rum with fresh lemon and orange juice.

West Side 

If you have a couple of days to explore the western side of the island, rent a car and take your time to slowly meander through any and all of the spots listed below. I posted them in the order I would visit them.

Nossa Senhora de Fátima

If you’re staying in Sao Vicente, this sweet little chapel is probably no more than a 5 to 10 minute drive from wherever you are.  It came up on my car’s GPS, but there is a parking lot off Parque de Estacionamento and R. Sao Vicente de Paulo . It’s a small lot and there is a residential house next to it. But there is a paved hillside path with some stairs that takes you up to the chapel. You can’t go inside, but the views are stunning and it’s a great spot to have a quiet moment by yourself in the morning. 

 

Sexial Beach and Natural Pools 

Next, head to the coastal town of Sexial. The roads in Madeira are easy to follow, especially the highway. There are basically a few main highways that take you around most of the coast. When you exit off for a town, there is typically one main road that is obvious for you to follow. But my navigation system in my vehicle got me to every location without any confusion. So, plug in  Frente do Mar do Sexial and head to my favorite location–the natural pools. The road is tiny and steep, but there are two parking lots to pull into before you get to the pools. Don’t make my mistake and drive all the way down to the very bottom and then get your car stuck and have to rely on a lovely Australian couple to embarrassingly help you get out. 

 

Once you park, continue down the road and veer right. To the far right at the very bottom are some stairs that lead to the first natural pool. Per usual, I got there early (before 9:00 am and in the off season), so there was no one there. I don’t typically recommend solo swimming, but it wasn’t terribly deep in most of the pool and it was too joyful of an experience for me to pass up. These pools are volcanic rock, so be careful near the rocky areas as these are not smooth stones. The water is perfectly clear. It was cold at first but it felt incredible to wade in and swim out to the rocky barrier with the crashing Atlantic waves on the other side. If you walk back up those steps and take a left, you will find the pool with a natural rock arch. It was a total fairy tale moment to swim in those chilly waters alone with the sound of waves crashing against the brim of the pool. 

 

There are also black sand beaches here in Sexial. It was a little chilly for a beach day, but if you are there on a hot day, takes some time to relax on the black sands and enjoy the dramatic coastline.

Porto Moniz

Next, drive a few more minutes down to Porto Moniz. This is another seaside town filled with a complex made of volcanic pools. In the warmer months (so pretty much anytime other than December-February) this is a great spot to spend a few hours. Some of these pools have small entry fees, but I read this is because they have a life guard. Many of these pools also have easier entrance points so younger kids can walk down stairs into the waters. There are also several shops, cafes, and restaurants within walking distance. If it had been warmer, I would have spent several hours here. One warning though, if the winds or waves are rough, this could be a dangerous place to swim. The rocks provide a natural protective barrier against the battering waves of the Atlantic, but if the winds are too strong , I could easily see how a wave could wash over and pull you out to sea. So if there’s a sign that says no swimming–take it seriously. 

Achada de Cruz

The town of Achada de Cruz is famous for hosting the steepest cable car in all of Europe. Once you arrive, there are plenty of signs for the cable car. Follow them and park along the steep road (don’t try to drive to the bottom and park unless there’s hardly anyone there). If heights are not your thing, close your eyes and do it anyway. It’s 5 Euros (cash only) and a five-minute ride down an incredibly steep mountainside to a practically abandoned old farming town right on the coast. I was in tears again (as I often am when traveling) at how remote it felt. There was something strange and peaceful with the mountains close to your back and the sea right in front of you and not a lot in between. The wind was incredibly strong and the waves were the only noise you heard when you wandered away from the other tourists. There are not many moments in our lives where we feel still, but this secluded spot forces you to not only be still but feel still. The only adjective I can find for the experience was haunting, but not in a spooky way. There are very few places I’ve been that have felt that quiet. It’s like the nature in this little corner of the world has no knowledge of whatever lies across the water, and even if it did, it would have no interest in the hustle that takes place in the majority of the rest of the world.  I spent close to two hours just wandering through the village remnants and along a paved path that weaves next to the coast. 

 

In a place that makes you feel utterly remote, I did run across a little house that wasn’t abandoned. It said “Free Toilets.” And even though I didn’t have to go, I saw a few umbrellas and heard music, so I decided to see what it was about. There was a woman and her family who opened their garden area up to people passing by. She offered me a drink (soda, poncha, or beer) and said to just drop whatever I thought was fair into a box on a table. I dropped some Euros in the box and relaxed in the sun with my beer listening to the music and the waves. In a place so remote it felt even more special to run across this social oasis. The ride back to the top feels more terrifying than going down, so close your eyes and then maybe enjoy another beer at the top in the cafe next to the cable car.

Fanal Forest 

Fanal Forest should technically be the third stop on your route, but there’s a reason why I circled back and made it my fourth instead. This unique forest is known for it’s eerie and typically consistent cloud cover. However, it was a beautifully clear day when I was there, but I read that even on clear days in other parts of the island, the mist still rolls in in the early morning and around 4:00 to 5:00 PM. So I made this my last stop of the day in hopes of catching the forest at its moodiest point. As I drove up the road to the parking area, I could see the mist already starting to roll in. Through the haze, I also saw a lot of cows just hanging out which added to the odd sensation of approaching this mystical forest. I felt really lucky, because as I parked and walked toward the forest area, the fog truly settled in and created another fairy tale moment. I felt like I was in the forbidden forest and some magical creature surely must be lurking around the corner. The other tourists were all pretty quiet as we took in the mystic atmosphere. There are hikes you can go on though the forest, but it’s also enough to just wander around and let your imagination wander with you. 

Levada Walk

I did all of the above in one day, but as all of these locations are not far apart from each other, you could stretch this out and spend more time hiking, swimming, and relaxing. If I had more time, I would have added in a Levada Walk. Levadas are  water channels that used to be used for irrigation. They are all over the island and many of them weave through picturesque areas that make for great hikes. There are tons of them and tons of signs as well for these hikes. Just ask your hotel staff for a nearby recommendation and go for a nice hike!

Central and West Side

Picco Ruvio

This mountainous area more central on the island, I would carve out a day to hike the Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruvio trail. You will see it listed as PR1 on hiking websites. Pico do Arierio is known as a spot for epic sunrises above the clouds. Pico Ruvio is the highest spot on Madeira. Many people come to Madeira to hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. If you choose this route, then you have two options:

 

Option 1: One, you could leave your car in the Pico do Arieiro parking lot. Then, hike the trail from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and then hike back to your car. This is not the typical recommendation because it is long and strenuous. This would be about a 12 mile hike.

 

Option 2: Take a taxi or hire a transport service (you can find tons on Get Your Guide or Viator) to take you to Pico do Arieiro. Then, when you arrive at Pico Ruvio, continue your hike down to Achadas Tiexeria where there is a parking lot and a restaurant. There you would  catch a taxi or meet your pick up  to return to your starting destination. 

For a shorter but still enjoyable hike, you can also hike from Achadas Tiexeria to Pico Ruvio and back. I had a bit of bad luck and the hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruvio was closed when I was there. I was terribly disappointed but decided to hike from Achadas Tiexeria to Pico Ruvio instead. This is a great option for sunrise or sunset or if the full hike from Picco de Ariero to PIcco Ruvio is too long for you. 

The hike from the parking lot of Achadas Tiexeria to Pico Ruvio is a bit uphill at times and I did get a little winded, but there were people of all ages and fitness levels on the very well-marked trail. There is also a small snack shop and resting point mid hike. It’s a beautiful open hike with the jagged mountain tops to one side and the rolling forest covered mountains to the other. The  top is stunning as you will usually get to see a cloud inversion. You are literally on top of the clouds looking down over the white fluffy canopy. And while I didn’t get to do the full Ariero to Ruvio hike, I could still see some of the epic trail in the distance and dream of one day going back and doing it at sunrise.

When you finish your hike, take a break at the restaurant which is directly across from the parking lot. There is indoor and outdoor seating and it’s a lovely spot to sit back and enjoy a cappuccino, juice, or glass of wine after your hike. 

 

Drive. Stop. Explore. Repeat.

I took my sweet time driving back east along the north side of the island from Sao Vicente to the very eastern part of Madeira where I hiked the Sao Lourenco. Along the way, I stopped at several different seaside and mountain areas like Sao Jorge, Santana, Faial, and Porto da Cruz. Literally, just plug in your final destination in your GPS, head east, and stop anytime you see a cute town which will be often. Whenever I got to a new town, I looked for miraduro (lookout) signs.  Every single one I stopped at was spectacular.

Each new town had its own unique charm. Sometimes I stopped just to check out a miraduro. Sometimes I stopped to just wander around for a bit. And sometimes I stopped just to enjoy an espresso while soaking up the sunshine. As I mentioned before, Madeira is a pretty small place so you can experience a lot in just a few hours!

San Lourenco

Ponta da Sao Lourenco, which is in the town of Canical, was the final destination of my trip. Ponta da Sao Lourenco is the easternmost point of the island and you can walk practically to the very tip of it. There are a couple of parking lots and plenty of side of the road spots available. I arrived around 3ish and the lot was starting to empty. My guess is people get there early in the day or closer to sunset. As soon as you look out on this coastal strip, it will be clear why they call it the Dragon’s Tail. The hike is not difficult. The exposed rugged landscape with waves crashing against jagged rocks on one side and a vast wrap-around view of the horizon and the rest of the island on the other is breathtaking. It’s a dramatic difference from the lush mountain sides of the western part of Madeira. It’s a lot more arid, but the orange hue of the soil against the blue of the ocean is dazzling. There is a spot for a pricey refreshment and toilets close to the end of the hike if needed. Mid-hike, there is a detour you can take down to the water’s edge. The hike took me about 2 hours, but I was pushing it (I had to get my rental car back). But as I was heading back the sun was starting to set. If you time it right, the sunset out on the point would be a spectacular moment. 

Funchal 

I was more interested in the nature of the island, and I didn’t love driving the tiny windy roads and trying to navigate the free for all parking situation in some of the more populated areas, so I didn’t explore Funchal. I spoke to a few people on the San Lourenço trail who told me about some of the highlights for them including the Old Town, the market, the cable cars, a food and wine tour (although I found Madeiran wines to taste more like liquour), the botanical gardens, and a ride on the traditional wicker toboggans. They did say to check out the cruise ship schedule, because days where cruise ships dock are incredibly crowded. They recommended avoiding Funchal on those days and exploring other parts of the island until the passengers return to the ship in evening. 

My $40 flight from Porto to Madeira was the best money I spent while in Portugal. Yes, it was only two days, but driving around the island felt like a storybook experience. I can’t imagine having missed out on Madeira and would love to return one day to soak it in at a slower speed.