Tips and Logistics
There are several major locations to visit in Italy. Seeing as I had less than seven days, I decided to stick to one area of this diverse country. I plan on making other trips to Italy in the future, so I wasn’t concerned about only visiting one area–the Amalfi coast. And let’s be real, if you have (she says both dramatically and sarcastically) to stick to one area in Italy, where better than the seaside towns of the Amalfi Coast?! Naples is a great place to fly into and then take the train to your destination. You can also get there by flying into Rome. Rome is typically cheaper to fly into, but it is a quicker trip if you fly into Naples. When you land, you will need to go to the Naples Central Station. From there, you will take the Circumvesuviana Train to Sorrento, and then a bus, taxi or ferry to any other coastal town you decide to stay in.
Amalfi, Positano, Capri, Ravello, Sorrento–Any of these cites are great jumping off points to visit several spots along the coast. I stayed in Sorrento because it was more cost effective. Each destination is unique and special in its own way.
Keep in mind that I traveled there in April, which is still in the off season. This means the weather was still a little rainy and cool some days–although we had three fantastic days of sunshine and 60+ degree weather. We didn’t get to experience the beach days parked under red and white umbrellas like you see in the movies, but I was willing to trade that for a more affordable and less crowded experience. If you choose to go during the peak time of summer, you will for sure get to enjoy the amazing weather and summer vibes of the Mediterranean coast, but you will also need to be prepared for higher prices and pretty intense crowds.
Travel Day
I flew into Naples because I was looking to maximize my time, and flying into Naples provided the most direct way to get to Sorrento. Take a taxi from the airport to the Naples Central Train Station. Always ask if taxis take cards if you plan on using one and establish the price up front. There are also taxi apps like Free Now which can be used if you aren’t comfortable catching a cab outside the airport. Since we landed late in the evening, I decided to stay the night in Naples and catch the train to Sorrento in the morning. I booked a room at Starthotel Termminus because it was located directly across from the central train station. This is an excellent hotel in Naples. Not only is it located mere feet away from the train station giving you access to other parts of Italy, but it is located in the historic city center near Piazza Garibaldi. I booked through Expedia as always and received a free room upgrade and bottle of wine. We landed that evening and were wiped with jet lag. There is a restaurant and bar in the hotel, but there are several small restaurants nearby as well. If you’re up to it, make a pizza stop as your first destination in Naples. Attanasio is a great close by option for some classic Neapolitan food, but after a long flight, I say keep it simple and just get a traditional Neapolitan pizza. If you’re tired or feeling a little overwhelmed, just ask your concierge to call you a cab or point you in the direction of where you can get food to go. Then, shower, relax, and get some sleep!
Day 1
Morning
Sleep in a bit to counteract the jet lag and catch the train to Sorrento around 9 or 10 am. You can purchase your tickets directly at the station at a kiosk or from the counter. The train from Naples to Sorrento is a straight shot (no need to change trains) so it’s pretty easy to navigate. I always like to map out my route ahead of time using Rome to Rio. Transportation can give me some anxiety, so sites like Rome to Rio help me feel at ease. There are a few things to note about the train system in Italy. People push and it can be hella crowded (like a lot of places in Europe). Keep your purse or bag strapped around you, hold it in front of you, keep a tight hand on your phone or keep it zipped up, and just get used to it. It was incredibly crowded on the stops from Naples to Pompeii and I stood the entire time squished in between strangers. I wedged myself against the side of the train and leaned against my suitcase as a makeshift seat. Also note that in the summers it can get pretty warm on the trains. But that being said, part of the joy of traveling is just settling into the swing of things. The crowds thinned after the Pompeii exit and the rest of the ride to Sorrento was smooth. It may not be the most comfortable experience, but it takes less than an hour and a half and is less than $5 so it’s hard to complain.
Afternoon
Check into your hotel in Sorrento. We stayed in Hotel De La Ville, which is stunning! It wasn’t right on the water’s edge, but it looked like a five-star resort at a three-star price. We could see the ocean and the mountains from our room, and the terrace on top of the hotel offered perfect views of the coastline. The floors and walls were covered in glass and marble with beautiful blue and white accents everywhere. It was too chilly to use the pool, but I bet it’s the perfect spot in the summer. The staff were some of the friendliest and most professional people I’ve ever met. It was clear all throughout Sorrento how seriously they take service. We had to wait until 12:00 to check in, but they let us store our luggage and we used that time to get familiar with the layout of the area. The city is fairly small so it’s a perfect location to just stroll around without any specific destination in mind. We wandered the streets admiring the iconic lemon groves, the dramatic cliffs against the coastline, the town square full of small shops, bustling restaurants, and the little side alleyways full of beautiful gardens.
Evening
Come back to the hotel and freshen up before your cooking class! While I booked this class through Viator, you can view the class directly through the Penisola Experience website. I’ve always had some pretty amazing experiences using Viator, but this might be one of my favorites! Our chef picked us up directly from the hotel. The other guests canceled that day, but he still kept the appointment which I really appreciated. He drove us to his family’s hillside villa with incredible views (seriously check out the pics on his website) just in time to catch the sunset. We washed our hands, put on our aprons and chef hats, and jumped into making gnocchi, eggplant Parmesan, and tiramisu. The chef talked a lot about how it’s the use of simple ingredients and not over complicating things that makes Italian food so deliziosa. He walked us step by step so we truly were the ones making the dishes, and he even took several pictures of us along the way to capture our culinary debut. Afterwards, we sat back with a glass of wine and dined on food that I couldn’t wait to recreate for friends and family back home.
Day 2
Morning
Start your morning with breakfast in the hotel. The hotel breakfast is no joke. It may be “continental” but it’s heads above the crowd compared to an American continental breakfast. The waiters seat you in a beautiful dining room and you have your choice of every breakfast (and non breakfast) delicacy you could imagine. The sourdough bread with fresh butter and ham was my go to along with an assortment of dainty pastries, and of course coffee and fresh orange juice. The breakfast experience alone was enough to put me in full-on vacation mode.
Next, it’s time to meet your guides for a walking tour of Sorrento. I booked here through Get Your Guide. I love both Viator and Get Your Guide. Between the two sites, you always find something that works for your schedule and budget. Almost every one of the walking tours also offers some type of tasting. It was a drizzly chilly morning, but when you’re walking you warm up quickly. We made several stops along the way including a cafe where we learned the ins and outs of ordering espresso in Italy. Forget sitting down with a big mug of coffee, the Italians prefer standing at the counter and slamming down an espresso in two or three sips perhaps accompanied by a quick pastry before they start their morning.
Here are a couple of things to know about the sacred coffee culture in Italy:
- Un caffè is an espresso (and what seemed like the most common order).
- Coffee to-go (in Italy and most of Europe) is not super common so be prepared to stand or sit.
- Coffee at the bar is cheaper and quicker than sitting at a table.
- If you’re looking for something similar to drip order an Americano.
- If you are searching for something close to the American version of a latte order a Caffè latte.
Sorrento is small enough to navigate on your own, but I always find a deeper appreciation for an area when I know more about the ins and outs of it. Some of the main highlights of the walking tour also included the Piazza Torquato Tasso (the main square), Coso Italia (a picturesque shopping street), the Valleone dei Mulini (ruins of ancient flour mill), and the Marina Grande (an old fishing village). Along with stories and cultural and historical information about Sorrento, we also stopped for some gelato and traditional Easter pastries since this important Catholic holiday was approaching. A walking tour is always a great way to start a trip as it helps you orient yourself and gives you the opportunity to ask a local guide any logistical questions about your itinerary.
Afternoon
You can really see Sorrento in one full day, but the day should be savored. The morning tour took us all around Sorrento and afterwards, we retraced some of our steps and spent some more time just exploring the town. Side streets off the main center of town bring you to winding alleyways full of little shops and restaurants. The Limonoro shop was my favorite store! You can find them here on Instagram and here on Facebook. The store attendants constantly ask you to try samples of lemon candies, cookies, and lemon cello. I probably had the equivalent of at least two shots before 2:00 pm. And the lemon cookies were so good that I ordered more when I got home. The back drop of the yellows and oranges against the blues and whites of many of the storefronts is delightful, and it took everything I had not to rack up on all the lemon souvenirs.
We had lunch at A’Marrena sandwich shop which you can find here on Facebook and on Tripadvisor here. It was so tasty we came back a few days later to pick up dinner. Enjoying the fresh meats and cheeses while sitting outside in a narrow alley watching people pass by made for a great afternoon.
I think one absolute full day is enough to explore Sorrento, but like I said earlier, enjoy the day! Take your time, walk everywhere, stop in every shop, take multiple cafe breaks (stop for coffee, then gelato, then a pastry, and then an apertivo!) and soak in the ambiance. It’s truly a pleasure to meander through the alleys, along the coastline, in the churches, up and down cobble stone pathways, and admire the slower paced and yet vibrant community of the town.
Evening
We spent all afternoon wandering. Then we came back to the hotel and freshened up. That evening we had dinner at La Locanda del Gusto which lived up to its five star reviews on Tripadvisor. Even though it was still misting and chilly, the outside section of the restaurant was covered in a tent and had heaters so it was pleasant. Dinners in Italy are slow and enjoyable. I ordered the carbonnara and we sat back and enjoyed a couple glasses of wine. It’s always ok to slow down on vacation, but after a day full of sight seeing it feels especially decadent–which to me is what Italy is all about!
Day 3
Morning
Wake up a little earlier to walk down to the docks to catch your small group boat tour to Capri. Both the concierge and our tour guide gave us perfect directions on where to meet them. There are several options of varying price ranges, so you can find the boat transfer option that fits your budget and expectations. We took a smaller boat that was limited to ten people. Now, I get easily sea sick and today was no exception; however, it was worth the nausea. It felt like something out of a movie as we glided across turquoise water towards the island of Capri which is just 30 minutes from the coast of Sorrento. It was a little chilly but not a cloud in the sky. I can’t imagine how beautiful but busy these waters are in the summer. Even though it was too cold for a dip, the views were spectacular. The water was also too high for us to go into the notorious blue grotto, but our captain took us to several other spots where we could admire and snap pics of the sparkling water against the rocks. As we approached the island, I learned there are two main parts: Capri and Anacapri. When we docked, we were given sandwiches and directions and told to enjoy the next four hours. It’s a long walk up to the top of the island, and unless you’re into that sort of thing I suggest using the funicular or grabbing a cab. However, be aware that taxis are bit expensive on Capri.
At the top of Capri, the dreamy Mediterranean vacation vibes are strong. Whitewashed store fronts dripping in flowers line the cobblestone streets. Even though this was technically low season, Capri was packed. If you don’t love crowds, this probably isn’t a summer destination I would recommend. The best thing to do on the island of Capri is wander. Some of my favorite stops were the Gardens of Augustus and the Carthusia–the island’s perfumery. We also enjoyed sitting in the town square watching the boats below, seeing the old timey cars whisk by, and sipping orange and lemon slushies while basking in the sun at little cafes.
Afternoon
After exploring for a while, catch a bus over to Anacapri. The bus station is easy to spot as it is at the top of Capri once you walk or drive up from the docks. Once you get to Anacapri, there are a few steps up to the chairlift where you can purchase tickets and ride all the way to the top. I loved the ride because you could peer into the homes and gardens of the locals with olive trees growing on slanted terrains and clothes hanging on the lines in their yards. The top of Anacapri was breathtaking. It’s a 360 degree view of the Mediterranean and Italian coast line. The iconic Fragolini rocks jut out against the horizon and the waters seem to go on forever. We walked around the top of Annacapri appreciating the vastness of the view. It’s easy to appreciate how impressive the Mediterranean is knowing it connects three continents and numerous people groups and cultures. Plan your timing for getting to and leaving Annacapri, and factor in an extra 30 minutes more than you thought you needed for returning. Give yourself some extra time to avoid stress if you are catching a bus back to the center of Capri because the bus lines can be long. And if you show up early for your boat departure, do what we did, grab a glass of wine and sit on the waters edge enjoying the view!
The ride back was even better than the ride there. I sat on the front of the boat which helped with my seasickness and got some great pics against the Fagolini Rocks. We were offered a drink on the way home (I opted for Gingerale due to the seasickness) and sat back enjoying the views as the sun started to set.
Evening
It’s been a long day. Take some time to enjoy a tea service at your hotel. My mom and I sat out in the garden and enjoyed some hot tea and small cookies and biscuits before freshening up and heading out to dinner. It was raining as we walked to dinner, but but the sound of the rain and the reflection of it in the streetlights was incredibly serene. There are tons of fabulous places to eat at really affordable prices. I suggest Basilico Pizzeria for of course pizza, or Inn Bufalito for pasta dishes and yes buffalo, or Torrna Trattoria for pasta. There are also a few Michelin Star Restaurants in Sorrento if that’s your jam. Honestly, I didn’t eat one bad meal while I was there. Cap off your evening with a lemon cello or gelato stop on your way back to the hotel and get some rest!
Day 4
Morning
Today you will conquer the Path of the Gods! This epic hike starts in the town of Amalfi and ends in Positano where you catch a bus back to Sorrento. Head to the Sorrento bus station (same location as the train station). At the train station are also several buses with signs for where they are heading to. You can also use Rome to Rio to check different bus schedules. We caught an early morning bus to Amalif. I was told the views during the bus ride were were both terrifying and gorgeous, but as I am super sensitive to motion, I basically closed my eyes and let my mom tell me about the jaw dropping cliff sides and how this giant bus managed to maneuver in seemingly impossible spots. If you decide to rent a car and drive yourself in Italy–God bless you.
In Amalfi, there is a tourist center located next to the bus stop as well as a water closet (WC=bathroom). Tip–public toilets typically cost one Euro so keep change on you. We found out that the typical bus route that takes you to the trailhead was closed, but we could pick up on the hike at the second stop on the way back to Sorrento. We had a bit of time before the next bus left, so we enjoyed the town center of Amalfil. I would recommend another half day to a full day to explore the area. Amalfi would be another great stay option. We grabbed some gelato and people watched before catching the next bus, and then starting our hike!
Afternoon
During the hike you have an open view of the Mediterranean on one side and the slopes of of the mountains covered in olive vineyards on the other. I climbed stairs past Italians’ dwellings built into the sides of the rocky mountains and felt like I was being allowed into their lives. In fact, at one point I wasn’t sure whether to go right or left, and an old man called down from his window pointing me in the right direction. There was a funicular that winds by part of the path, and men on tiny carts full of construction supplies went whizzing past like some kind of kidde ride at Disney. The views are truly never ending. The alternate path we took due to the change in bus route had us walking up all the stairs. All. The. Stairs. My mom is in her late 50s and walks daily, and she was able to do the hike–although she said it was truly strenuous. Even as someone who works out at 4 to 5 times a week, it definitely was an effort, but totally worth it. At the so called “top” of the hike, there are little kiosks where you can buy frozen orange or lemon drinks, a perfect reprieve from the heat of the hike. Then starts the trek downhill. Honestly this might be worse on the knees, but I hardly noticed as the vista of Positano came closer and closer into view.
Once you enter Positano, it’s time to find a place to grab a drink or lunch and just relax for a bit. But don’t relax too long, because there’s plenty to see. If you want to make the most out of Positano, I suggest staying the night or making it a day trip. After our long hike, we really only had the energy to wander around the tiny alleyways for a bit, walk through some of the colorful stores, and stop by Spiaggia Grande--the iconic beach. Positano is more of a luxury spot and one I think is probably best enjoyed in the summer.
Evening
Now that you’re back from your hike, spend one more relaxing evening in Sorrento. If you’re there in the summer, relax on the rooftop and soak in the pool or hot tub. Take some time to do any final shopping for souvenirs and enjoy one final dinner in sweet Sorrento. We had another rainy evening, but it was so tranquil and picturesque. We sat back with pizza and champagne at Ristorante Tasso. The cheese of the pizza stretched just like you would imagine it would in Italy and we sat for a good long while enjoying the night.
Day 5
Catch an early train back so you can spend some time in Naples before you take the train to the airport to fly home (or continue your exploration of Italy if you have the time). When arriving in Naples we stayed in the same hotel as before directly across from the train station which was super convenient. This would be a good day to spend exploring Naples and/or to check out Pompei. If you decide to go to Pompei, buy your tickets online from the official website and avoid the scammers outside the Scavi train station calling for you to buy their tickets. You can hire a guide or pay for an audio guide. We opted for the audio guide. Plan for a couple of hours at Pompei. I don’t recommend Pompei the day after the Path of the Gods. I think we were really worn out. The audio guides are a great way to view the area at your own pace and focus on the areas we wanted to see. Pompei is huge, so don’t feel like you have to see it all.
If you decide to spend the day exploring Naples, the birthplace of pizza, then don’t miss out on taking a food tour or cooking class!
Italy is extremely diverse and the Amalif Coast is only a snap shot of what the country has to offer. But it is truly a snapshot that captures la dolce vita perfectly!
